There are places in Albania where time doesn’t just slow down—it stands still. Recently, I took a journey that reminded me how much beauty still lies hidden just beyond the noise of Tirana. The road led us through Prisca Pass and into a world few have seen, even fewer have told.

As we descended past the pass, the landscapes opened like a living painting—vast, green, and serene. The Valley of Shëngjergj felt like a forgotten dream, dotted with humble villages that hold centuries of memory in their quiet presence.

We ventured into the Cave of Vali, a natural monument cloaked in mystery. Not far from there, surrounded by dense forest, we came upon the Lake of Biza—wide, calm, and incredibly scenic. With its deep green waters and stillness all around, the lake radiated a quiet beauty that took us by surprise. It felt untouched and powerful, as if nature itself had carved out this space for reflection, or even for a refreshing swim on a warm day.

Along the way, military bunkers from another era stood like silent witnesses to the country’s complex past.

The surrealism continued as we reached Biza—an eerie and captivating ghost town, once a thriving military base,resting under the open sky like a stage left behind after the play ended.

But what truly grounded us in this remote place was a visit to the Vehbiu dairy farm, a small, artisanal producer in Biza. Here, tradition lives in every wheel of cheese, and the care with which they treat their land and animals is a reflection of the values rooted deep in the soil.

Then came one of the most unexpected and powerful moments of the trip—the “City of Peace.”

Hidden within this rugged terrain, in the heart of Martanesh, lies a spiritual sanctuary—not a city in the traditional sense, but a sacred ensemble of humble Bektashi structures nestled near a cave. This revered site is dedicated to Ballem Sulltani, a 14th-century mystic and spiritual leader, and has been a place of pilgrimage and healing for centuries. Even today, the so-called “city” carries his name and presence.

Locals believe the area holds miraculous energy, offering comfort and healing for those who suffer, whether in body or soul. People arrive quietly, sometimes barefoot, leaving behind a stone, a prayer, or a tear—hoping to take home something intangible: peace, clarity, strength.

We continued our route through Krastë, a town in the middle of nowhere, frozen in time. Walking through its empty streets, I felt like I had stepped into the 1980s—a place where life goes on, untouched by the chaos and modernity that swirl just a few hours away.

The journey reached its poetic end at Ura e Vashës, the Bridge of the Maiden, a legendary site arching gracefully over the Mat River. With its sweeping views and folk tales etched into every stone, it’s a place where nature and legend hold hands. We stood there as the sun softened, letting the river’s rhythm bring quiet to everything we had seen and felt that day.

How to Get There

Start from Tirana and head toward Prisca Pass and the Valley of Shëngjergj. The drive is scenic but requires a sturdy vehicle—preferably a 4×4 for comfort and safety.

Distances may seem short on the map, but road conditions and stops make it a full-day or overnight trip.

Best Time to Visit

• Spring and autumn offer the most pleasant weather and vibrant landscapes. Summer is also a good option, with fresh mountain air and cooler temperatures compared to the city.
• Winter may bring snow and limited access to remote roads.

Key Stops

• Valley and waterfall of Shëngjergj – for village life and views
• Cave of Vali – natural and mysterious
• Biza Ghost Town – haunting beauty and unique atmosphere
• Vehbiu Dairy Farm – try fresh cheese and local produce
• “City of Peace” / Ballem Sulltani’s Tekke – spiritual experience
• Krastë – a surreal, time-frozen mining town
• Ura e Vashës – a photogenic and legendary end to your route

Local Tips

• Bring cash – Card payments are rare in remote areas.
• Dress modestly when visiting religious sites.
• Bring water and snacks – There are limited shops or restaurants along the way.
• Respect local customs and silence, especially in sacred areas.
• If possible, go with a local guide or someone familiar with the region to uncover stories and navigate better.

Don’t Forget Your Camera! 🙂